by Zenda Walker | Mar 21, 2025 | Activism, Business, Hairitage
Introduction
The recent Consumer Reports study on synthetic hair has delivered unsettling results. Confirming long-held concerns, the study, detailed in Leigh-Ann Jackson’s article, reveals that 100% of the top ten braiding hair brands tested contain harmful VOCs, lead, and carcinogens.
This isn’t just a news flash; it’s a wake-up call. We’ve been here before. The recent natural hair renaissance was driven, in part, by the desire for healthier alternatives after hair relaxers were linked to an increased risk of certain cancers. This new revelation about synthetic braiding hair feels like a betrayal of the hard-won progress we’ve made in embracing our natural hair and cultural styles.
So, where do we go from here?
The Impact on Our Traditions
Consumer Reports’ findings hit hard because our hair customs are deeply intertwined with our identity. We’ve relied on certain products to achieve the styles that connect us to our ancestors and reflect our personal style. The fear is real: how can we continue to honor our traditions when the very tools we use are potentially harming us?
This revelation forces us to confront a difficult truth: the pursuit of flawless styles may have come at a hidden cost. We’ve been conditioned to believe that certain products are essential for achieving our desired looks, but at what expense?
A Call for Radical Honesty and Re-evaluation
Now, I know this might ruffle some feathers, but it’s time for some radical honesty. We need to challenge the status quo and question the very definition of “beautiful” within our community.
Here are some provocative questions that may spark a much-needed dialogue:
1. What if we just let our hair live in its natural frizz? What if we embraced the texture that grows from our scalps, celebrating the unique beauty of our natural hair? Frizz isn’t a flaw.
2. What if we braided down the natural length of our hair? Imagine intricate braids that showcase the natural length and volume of our hair, without extensions or added chemicals. It’s possible.
3. What if we let our Afros shrink? We love the big, bold Afro, but what if we allowed our hair to naturally recoil, embracing its natural volume and shape? What if we valued health over size and length?
4. What if we normalize free-form or cultivated locs for all ages? What if we allowed our locs to evolve organically, celebrating the natural process and release the stigmas that are attached to locked communities?
These questions aren’t about abandoning our traditions; they’re about honoring and reimagining them. They’re about prioritizing our health and well-being without sacrificing our cultural expression.
The Path Forward: Embracing Cleaner Beauty Alternatives
The good news is that we don’t have to choose between our health and our heritage. There’s a growing movement within the Black hair community that’s focused on clean, natural, and non-toxic products.
Here are some braiding hair brands that are leading the way:
- ReBundle: Founded by, Ciara Imani May, is known for their sustainable, plant-based braiding hair derived from naturally extracted banana fiber.
- Dosso Beauty: Founded by Kadidja Dosso, this brand focuses on clinically tested, pre-cleansed, pre-stretched, hypoallergenic and itch-free braiding hair.
- Nourie Hair: Founded by Osahon Ojeaga this brand boasts vegan, clean braiding hair that releases a nourishing complex during the wear of the hair.
100% human hair is another alternative to minimize or avoid harmful toxins and the discomfort that can come from chemical inflammation. It is recommended to still pre-wash the hair prior to installation as an extra precaution.
Here are some Human hair bundle hair and wig brands that are at the top of our list:
- Trace by Angela C. Stevens (aka. Angela C. Styles): Includes classic bundles, clip-ins and U-part inventory options are coming soon.
- True & Pure Texture by Pekela Riley: Includes bundles and clip-ins with an array of textures to achieve endless styles.
- Eve By Boz by Bozoma Saint John: Accompanied by a full care line up, this new line of human hair wigs and bundles offers texture variety and inches that are great for head-turning looks: Eve By Boz Products are manufactured in Ghana, West Africa.
Conclusion
The Consumer Reports study is a turning point. It’s an opportunity for us to redefine our beauty standards and reclaim our hair rituals. Let’s continue to embrace our natural textures, explore innovative styles, and support brands that prioritize our health.
It’s time to strip down to the basic necessities of healthy haircare. Our traditional styles can be achieved with safer products and in some cases, a curated paired down line up. We don’t have to sacrifice our health for beauty. Let’s create a future where our hair is a symbol of both our heritage and our well-being.
Let’s start the conversation. What are your thoughts? Share your experiences and insights in the comments below.
Zenda Walker is licensed cosmetologist and award-winning author of “Zara’s Wash Day” and “Zion’s Crown”- two books that celebrate hairstyles of the African Diaspora (Released by Running Press Kids in 2024). Zenda is also the CEO of Know Your Hairitage-an education consulting company that supports K-12 school districts with culturally responsive programming. She is represented by The Seymour Agency. For more information visit www.knowyourhairitage.com.
by Zenda Walker | Jun 28, 2024 | Business, Hairitage, Pop Culture & Hairitage, Textured Hair, Wash Day
The beauty industry is experiencing yet another revolution, with textured hair care evolving from the celebrity talent pool. Gone are the days of struggling to find products that meet the unique needs of Black and Brown hair. Today, we’re bombarded with an abundance of options, and that’s a cause for celebration, not competition.
This explosion of brands isn’t just a trend – it’s a reflection of the immense buying power of Black beauty consumers, which was a staggering $9.4 billion in 2023 with dollar, unit, and household growth outpacing growth for the United States according to a Nielson NIQ report. It’s no surprise that major retailers are taking notice and dedicating coveted shelf space to cater to this underserved market.
The arrival of celebrity brands like Beyoncé’s Cécred and Rihanna’s Fenty Hair has undoubtedly generated significant buzz. While some debate the launch strategies and product performance of these lines, others question if the celebrities themselves are “deserving” of success.
Here’s the truth: the beauty market is vast and diverse. Some consumers will gravitate towards premium, luxury brands like Cécred seeking high performance and a touch of exclusivity. Others will find loyalty in lines like Fenty Hair, offering reparative solution products for various curl patterns at a more accessible price point and distribution. And then there’s the value-conscious consumer who prioritizes budget over brand efficacy and loyalty.
Instead of getting caught up in celebrity endorsements, let’s focus on the bigger picture. Today, we’re no longer forced to settle for subpar options. We have the freedom to experiment, discover, and tailor a haircare regimen that celebrates our individuality.
This latest revolution didn’t happen overnight. We owe a debt of gratitude to the countless Black and Brown entrepreneurs who have been pushing boundaries for years. Pioneering brands like Kreyòl Essence by co-founders Yve-Car Momperousse and Stéphane Jean-Baptiste, Eden Bodyworks by Jasmine Lawrence, Taliah Waajid Brand by Taliah Waajid, TPH by Taraji P. Henson, Sienna Naturals by Issa Rae and Hannah Diop, 4U by Tia Lowry, Pattern Beauty by Tracee Ellis Ross, Carol’s Daughter by Lisa Price, TGIN by Cris-Tia Donaldson, Camille Rose by Janell Stephens, and Mielle Organics by Monique Rodriguez, along with countless others, paved the way for today’s flourishing marketplace. And we can’t forget about our Latinx founders who are changing the haircare game like, Babba Rivera of Ceremonia, La La Anthony of Inala, Julissa Prado of Rizos Curls, Aisha Cebellos-Crump of Honey Baby Naturals and Botanika Beauty, and Lulu Cordero of Bomba Curls.
Ultimately, the true winners in this beauty revolution are us, the consumers. We have the power to choose, to experiment, and to embrace the beauty of our coils in a multitude of ways. So, let’s celebrate the options, honor the pioneers, and most importantly, celebrate ourselves. The future of textured hair care is bright, and it’s a future built by and for us.
Zenda M. Walker is the award-winning author of “Zara’s Wash Day” and “Zion’s Crown”-two books in the Know Your Hairitage series. She is represented by The Seymour Agency.
by Zenda Walker | Mar 27, 2023 | Business
Here’s some exciting news about KYH and the great ways we are infusing cultural beauty traditions around the world.
I Paid the Cost to be The Boss!
I paid the cost to be the boss! B. B. King played it. James Brown sang it. I am living it.
In other words, I made many strategic investments to pivot into becoming a multi award winning author, Know Your Hairitage consultant, and celebrity stylist. The investment in myself prepared me for bigger opportunities. Let me explain.
It all started in 2020, when I made the decision to self-publish my children’s book Zara’s Wash Day. Initially, Zara’s Wash Day was set to be a one-and-done passion project. However, the minute I finished my last edit, I knew that celebrating hairstyles of the African diaspora and Indigenous communities was a topic that had depth and could (and should) be sustainable as a series. This meant that my investment into an author profile, book editing, book design, and illustrations would expand into website design, attorney fees, paid ads, LLC establishment, and a host of other costs to start a full-fledged business.
I even paid a fee for every single book award contest I entered. Participating in the literary award process was one of my ah ha moments. It made me realize that, in most cases, you don’t get discovered and rewarded for being or doing something awesome. You actually have to believe in your awesomeness, fill out an application, and pay a fee to be considered. And while placing in any contest is a great boost to an individual’s brand and confidence, the cost ranged from $60-$400 per event.
Let’s not forget about all the applications and tools needed for brand continuity such as professional versions of art applications, social media profiles, website plugins, virtual assistants, post office box, vending set up, etc. I even had to budget for wardrobe, make-up, and a photographer to level up on my personal branding.
Starting out, I remember being told countless times how to cut corners and launch cheap. I was even criticized by a book coach on the investment I made to launch my book. I began to feel defeated and questioned all my decisions. But when my finished product came off the press and my graphics began posting online, my book essentially became my business card. The effort and quality I put into the presentation and content allowed me to enter rooms as an authority and be paid as such. Prioritizing your spend is important but accepting that you have to spend money to make money, is a psychological shift that many of us who did not grow up with money, have to work on. In other words, being the boss will also cost you time and your comfort zone.
I invested close to $17,000 and my return on investment was monumental. I laugh now when I think about how in December of 2020, I had to decide whether to pay my mortgage or buy my first order of books after hitting the publish button. Three years later, I have tripled my annual income and there is no cap on my earning potential. The best part is that even though I gave up my nine-to-five corporate job to work twenty-four-seven, I get to be a happy and present mom for my daughter, Zara. And that my friends, is priceless.
Zenda Walker is the award winning author of Zara’s Wash Day and CEO of Know Your Hairitage,LLC-a business consulting firm. Zara’s Wash Day and her second book, Zion’s Crown will be published globally under Running Press Kids in 2024. Visit www.knowyourhairitage.com for more information and booking inquiries.
by Zenda Walker | Mar 16, 2023 | Business
Here’s some exciting news about KYH and the great ways we are infusing cultural beauty traditions around the world.
Five Steps I took to Grow My Author Brand
If you have been following me on social media, you will know that I have been on quite a journey since self-publishing Zara’s Wash Day in December of 2020. I will never downplay the steps it took to level up as an entrepreneur. I worked hard. I am a divorced mom, who at the time, worked a demanding nine-to-five job, homeschooled my daughter during a global pandemic, juggled a side hustle hair styling business, and struggled to find a glimpse of time to write my first book. However, the path to securing a trade deal with a top five publisher began with five attainable steps.
First, BE INTENTIONAL. I was intentional about my goal of becoming a full-time author, and education and workplace diversity and inclusion consultant. I knew that once I wrote Zara’s Wash Day, I had to commit to investing in the process, becoming a public figure, marketing my book daily, and potentially leaving my full-time job.
Second, CREATE A QUALITY PRODUCT. I wrote a good book. What constitutes a “good book?” Well, I made sure that I took time to research my topic from credible sources. I invested in a developmental editor. The meat of my book was great, but it needed to be refined. Truth be told, my manuscript was full of corrections and feedback notes from my developmental editor. Seeing all those “track changes” initially had me in my feelings, but her feedback made Zara’s Wash Day what it is today. She made sure the versus actually rhymed and had a fun cadence for readers. She also advised me to shorten the book which meant I had to cut out an entire section that I grew attached to. Additionally I invested in an illustrator, Princess Karibo, and book designer, Anthony Foronda. I sought an illustrator who could respect the beauty of the Black aesthetic and honor the movement of textured hair. I wanted a designer who could put the book together in a way that would stand out on shelf, in print, and online. This team understood the assignment and trusting their expertise freed me up to concentrate on my strength-writing.
Third,THINK BIGGER. I was in this for the long game. I built out a full brand with my book being the tool that established credibility and awareness. Initially, Zara’s Wash Day was going to be a one-and-done project. But by the time I finished the manuscript, I realized that the message was bigger than just one book. I realized that most ethnic communities have a hairitage-hair customs, traditions, beliefs and practices passed down by an ancestor or predecessor. So, I asked myself, ” How can I be more inclusive and set the series and my consulting business for longevity?” The next step was to change the book title to something that I knew would resonate with my community- Zara’s Wash Day.Then I named the series, Know Your Hairitage.
Fourth, BE PREPARED…TO TALK ABOUT YOURSELF. I mastered my elevator speech. I left my corporate job but held onto the knowledge and relationships I gained as a corporate leader in marketing, communications, sales, and education. I operated in my strengths and applied what I learned from larger corporations. The breakthrough happened when I fully understood the mission of my books and business. Then I poured my creativity and swag into each strategy execution. As a smaller start-up (or shall I say, as a one-woman-show), I experimented with my audience and adjusted with speed and agility. This also meant that every day I was talking about myself and my product. That was difficult because I had to step outside of this notion that being humble and grateful would work better for me as a Black, woman entrepreneur. In fact, being less humble was the fuel I needed to light the fire. Even when I did not want to, I posted, created content, carried my books everywhere, and networked-I lived a breathed my brand. Every time I left my house or got ready for a call, I had this phrase playing in my head, “Prepare right now to be sick of me!”
And lastly, DO IT SCARED. I was terrified when I uploaded my final book files and hit the go button on the IngramSpark self-publishing website. The fear of being vulnerable and exposing myself to the world prevailed. I had to get comfortable with the idea that fear can exist in the same space as courage. I took action (and paused when necessary) while allowing myself to feel all the feels.
I hope that this formula for leveling up will help someone out in the world who is ready to take the leap into entrepreneurship and/or who is struggling to breakthrough.
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Zenda Walker is CEO of Know Your Hairitage-a business consulting firm. She is the award-winning author of “Zara’s Wash Day,” the first book in the Know Your Hairitage series. Both Zara’s Wash Day and her second book, Zion’s Crown, will globally launch under Running Press Kids in June 4, 2024 and September 10, 2024.