The Latest Hair Revolution: A Celebration of Choice, Not Celebrity

The Latest Hair Revolution: A Celebration of Choice, Not Celebrity

The beauty industry is experiencing yet another revolution, with textured hair care evolving from the celebrity talent pool. Gone are the days of struggling to find products that meet the unique needs of Black and Brown hair. Today, we’re bombarded with an abundance of options, and that’s a cause for celebration, not competition.

This explosion of brands isn’t just a trend – it’s a reflection of the immense buying power of Black beauty consumers, which was a staggering $9.4 billion in 2023 with dollar, unit, and household growth outpacing growth for the United States according to a Nielson NIQ report. It’s no surprise that major retailers are taking notice and dedicating coveted shelf space to cater to this underserved market.

The arrival of celebrity brands like Beyoncé’s Cécred and Rihanna’s Fenty Hair has undoubtedly generated significant buzz. While some debate the launch strategies and product performance of these lines, others question if the celebrities themselves are “deserving” of success.

Here’s the truth: the beauty market is vast and diverse. Some consumers will gravitate towards premium, luxury brands like Cécred seeking high performance and a touch of exclusivity. Others will find loyalty in lines like Fenty Hair, offering reparative solution products for various curl patterns at a more accessible price point and distribution. And then there’s the value-conscious consumer who prioritizes budget over brand efficacy and loyalty.

Instead of getting caught up in celebrity endorsements, let’s focus on the bigger picture. Today, we’re no longer forced to settle for subpar options. We have the freedom to experiment, discover, and tailor a haircare regimen that celebrates our individuality.

This latest revolution didn’t happen overnight. We owe a debt of gratitude to the countless Black and Brown entrepreneurs who have been pushing boundaries for years. Pioneering brands like Kreyòl Essence by co-founders Yve-Car Momperousse and Stéphane Jean-Baptiste, Eden Bodyworks by Jasmine Lawrence, Taliah Waajid Brand by Taliah Waajid, TPH by Taraji P. Henson, Sienna Naturals by Issa Rae and Hannah Diop, 4U by Tia Lowry, Pattern Beauty by Tracee Ellis Ross, Carol’s Daughter by Lisa Price, TGIN by Cris-Tia Donaldson, Camille Rose by Janell Stephens, and Mielle Organics by Monique Rodriguez, along with countless others, paved the way for today’s flourishing marketplace. And we can’t forget about our Latinx founders who are changing the haircare game like, Babba Rivera of Ceremonia, La La Anthony of Inala, Julissa Prado of Rizos Curls, Aisha Cebellos-Crump of Honey Baby Naturals and Botanika Beauty, and Lulu Cordero of Bomba Curls.

Ultimately, the true winners in this beauty revolution are us, the consumers. We have the power to choose, to experiment, and to embrace the beauty of our coils in a multitude of ways. So, let’s celebrate the options, honor the pioneers, and most importantly, celebrate ourselves. The future of textured hair care is bright, and it’s a future built by and for us.

Zenda M. Walker is the award-winning author of “Zara’s Wash Day” and “Zion’s Crown”-two books in the Know Your Hairitage series. She is represented by The Seymour Agency.

How “Inside Out 2” Makes the Case for Culturally Responsive Content: Lessons for Celebrating Hairitage

How “Inside Out 2” Makes the Case for Culturally Responsive Content: Lessons for Celebrating Hairitage

The “Inside Out” franchise is making it much easier for parents to navigate those tough conversations about emotions. The first movie brilliantly introduced us to the development of a young girl’s emotions. Joy, Sadness, Anger, Disgust, and Fear learned to work together to safeguard Riley’s well-being. “Inside Out 2” tackles Riley’s teenage years, where new emotions take center stage, and she grapples with solidifying her sense of self. Enter Anxiety, Envy, Embarrassment, and Boredom (Ennui).

Watching Riley navigate these overwhelming emotions became a powerful metaphor for why I started writing books that celebrate “hairitage.” Through my research and countless conversations with clients over the past two decades, I’ve witnessed firsthand how deeply our hair stories are tied to self-perception. Memories shape beliefs, and the messages we receive about our hair, from family and society alike, have a profound impact.

Some clients I’ve spoken with grew up hearing affirmations about their beautiful, textured hair. For others, the narrative was vastly different. Words like, “ugly,” “difficult,” “messy,” and “unprofessional,” become too often associated with curly, coily, Afro-coily textures.  Some received both positive and negative feedback, leaving them conflicted and perpetually unsure of themselves.

Black women, in particular, face a unique burden when it comes to societal expectations surrounding hair. That’s why it’s crucial for guardians, parents, and hairstylists to be hyper-aware of how they communicate with young people, especially during wash day. Positive experiences, in the emotional and physical developmental stages, can significantly impact a child’s self-esteem.

Inside Out 2” cleverly highlights how our own childhood anxieties and traumas can sometimes resurface and influence our adult decisions. So, how can an adult with insecurities about their own textured hair empower a child to embrace theirs? The movie, perhaps unintentionally, offers a solution: it reminds us that occasional fear, anxiety, disgust, and anger are normal parts of life’s journey. We don’t have to bottle up these “maladaptive” emotions. Instead, acknowledging and accepting them can be the first step towards rediscovering joy. Perhaps this is why many of Riley’s core memories end up including multiple emotions, not just a single emotion formed in isolation.

Our hair wash day memories can embody several emotions, and discovering the joy in the journey is key to trusting the process and embracing our hair in all its glory.

My daughter, Zara, and I confronted the root of our hair insecurities by experimenting with techniques and products, ultimately finding joy in learning about the cultural hairstyles passed down in my family – a connection to a rich ancestral legacy. The experiences of Zara and Zion in my books, “Zara’s Wash Day” and “Zion’s Crown,” mirror this journey as well. While moments of fear, doubt, and frustration may still arise, our heightened awareness and appreciation for our hairitage make it easier to bounce back and rediscover feelings of joy.

 

I Paid the Cost to be The Boss!

I Paid the Cost to be The Boss!

NEWS

Here’s some exciting news about KYH and the great ways we are infusing cultural beauty traditions around the world.

I Paid the Cost to be The Boss!

I paid the cost to be the boss! B. B. King played it. James Brown sang it. I am living it.

In other words, I made many strategic investments to pivot into becoming a multi award winning author, Know Your Hairitage consultant, and celebrity stylist. The investment in myself prepared me for bigger opportunities. Let me explain.

It all started in 2020, when I made the decision to self-publish my children’s book Zara’s Wash Day. Initially, Zara’s Wash Day was set to be a one-and-done passion project.  However, the minute I finished my last edit, I knew that celebrating hairstyles of the African diaspora and Indigenous communities was a topic that had depth and could (and should) be sustainable as a series. This meant that my investment into an author profile, book editing, book design, and illustrations would expand into website design, attorney fees, paid ads, LLC establishment, and a host of other costs to start a full-fledged business.

I even paid a fee for every single book award contest I entered.  Participating in the literary award process was one of my ah ha moments.  It made me realize that, in most cases, you don’t get discovered and rewarded for being or doing something awesome.  You actually have to believe in your awesomeness, fill out an application, and pay a fee to be considered. And while placing in any contest is a great boost to an individual’s brand and confidence, the cost ranged from $60-$400 per event.

Let’s not forget about all the applications and tools needed for brand continuity such as professional versions of art applications, social media profiles, website plugins, virtual assistants, post office box, vending set up, etc. I even had to budget for wardrobe, make-up, and a photographer to level up on my personal branding.

Starting out, I remember being told countless times how to cut corners and launch cheap. I was even criticized by a book coach on the investment I made to launch my book. I began to feel defeated and questioned all my decisions.  But when my finished product came off the press and my graphics began posting online, my book essentially became my business card.  The effort and quality I put into the presentation and content allowed me to enter rooms as an authority and be paid as such. Prioritizing your spend is important but accepting that you have to spend money to make money, is a psychological shift that many of us who did not grow up with money, have to work on. In other words, being the boss will also cost you time and your comfort zone.

I invested close to $17,000 and my return on investment was monumental. I laugh now when I think about how in December of 2020, I had to decide whether to pay my mortgage or buy my first order of books after hitting the publish button.  Three years later, I have tripled my annual income and there is no cap on my earning potential.  The best part is that even though I gave up my nine-to-five corporate job to work twenty-four-seven, I get to be a happy and present mom for my daughter, Zara.  And that my friends, is priceless.

Zenda Walker is the award winning author of Zara’s Wash Day and CEO of Know Your Hairitage,LLC-a business consulting firm.  Zara’s Wash Day and her second book, Zion’s Crown will be published globally under Running Press Kids in 2024.  Visit www.knowyourhairitage.com for more information and booking inquiries.

Three Steps I took to Enhance the Hair Wash Day Experience

Three Steps I took to Enhance the Hair Wash Day Experience

NEWS

Here’s some exciting news about KYH and the great ways we are infusing cultural beauty traditions around the world.

Three Steps I took to Enhance the Hair Wash Day Experience

Textured hair, ranging from afros to curls and coils, is an important aspect of Black women’s identity as it links to our culture, ancestry, and social and emotional well-being. The resurgence of the natural hair movement is challenging Eurocentric beauty norms, and we are here for it! As a hair stylist and natural hair enthusiast, I enjoy seeing people fully embracing their textured hair.

And while the natural hair movement has made strides towards dismantling negative attitudes towards curly, coily, Afro-coily hair, there is still some residual colonial sentiment that we, the Black and Brown textured hair community must continue to dispel. This is an inside job my friends. It starts with one of the most important beauty rituals practiced by so many people of African descent…Wash Day. Hair wash day is the number of hours or days set aside to attend to the care and styling of textured hair. Curly, coily, textured hair requires additional moisture and due to the intricacies of some of our cultural hairstyles, often requires additional time and attention to detail. This makes wash day the best opportunity to bond with our loved-ones and speak life into each other, rather than perpetuate negative sentiments. So how can we change the narrative and continue to uphold the social and emotional health of our community? Here are the three “Ps” that changed the wash day routine for me and my daughter, Zara. PREPARATION. Studies show that structured activities for children can create a sense of security and predictability. This can lead to better emotional regulation for both you and the child. Once I started to include Zara in the planning of Wash Day, she stopped rebelling and exhibiting signs of irritability. I even started to build excitement leading to our bi-monthly appointment by letting her know that I look forward to that time with her and letting her choose the hairstyle. It also helps to have the products you need on hand to create the end result and make sure you create buffer time to complete the appointment. You may also want to consider picking out a movie or music that can keep the child entertained throughout the appointment. This way, wash day is happening with the child and not to the child. PATIENCE. As the leader of this 4C household, I know first-hand that the detangling process can present challenges, especially on a tender head. Some of my earliest memories of Wash Day was muscling through the pain of a heavy-handed auntie who had no issue silencing my cries and strongly suggesting that I “toughen up.” As an adult, I sarcastically joke with my girlfriends about this shared experience, but I admit that this iteration of “being seen and not heard” and suffering in silence was traumatic. I had to find a way to break the cycle for me and Zara. Today I recommend acknowledging the child’s discomfort and using detangling techniques/tools to minimize discomfort. For instance, gently finger detangling and misting the hair with a leave in conditioner can prep the hair prior to detangling with a comb or flexible detangling brush. Also, using wide-tooth comb to gently rake through small sections from the ends to the root can minimize damage and tugging. Lastly, bundling the detangled hair into loosely braided or two-strand twisted sections (6-8 depending on density), and shampooing and conditioning one section at a time to keep the strands detangled. POSITIVITY. Speak life into the child and practice using affirming language, even in times of frustration. For example, our hair is not “difficult, tough, or hard to deal with.” The coils, curls, twists, and zig-zag strands have personality. Our hair is linked to our powerful ancestry. Then try showing children pictures of great Black leaders who have hair like them. This foundational information builds confidence which can transform how children and adults approach the world and see themselves. I noticed a huge difference in Zara’s self-esteem once I took this approach. Our collective transformation inspired the book “Zara’s Wash Day.” We have the power to dismantle hundreds of years of negative attitudes towards our aesthetic. It will not happen overnight. But let’s hold hands because it takes a village.       Zenda Walker is the award winning author of Zara’s Wash Day and CEO of Know Your Hairitage,LLC-an inclusive education and business consulting firm. “Zara’s Wash Day” and the second book in the Know Your Hairitage series, “Zion’s Crown,” will be published globally under Running Press Kids in 2024. Visit www.knowyourhairitage.com for more information and booking inquiries.
Five Steps I took to Grow My Author Brand

Five Steps I took to Grow My Author Brand

NEWS

Here’s some exciting news about KYH and the great ways we are infusing cultural beauty traditions around the world.

Five Steps I took to Grow My Author Brand

If you have been following me on social media, you will know that I have been on quite a journey since self-publishing Zara’s Wash Day in December of 2020. I will never downplay the steps it took to level up as an entrepreneur. I worked hard. I am a divorced mom, who at the time, worked a demanding nine-to-five job, homeschooled my daughter during a global pandemic, juggled a side hustle hair styling business, and struggled to find a glimpse of time to write my first book. However, the path to securing a trade deal with a top five publisher began with five attainable steps.

First, BE INTENTIONAL. I was intentional about my goal of becoming a full-time author, and education and workplace diversity and inclusion consultant. I knew that once I wrote Zara’s Wash Day, I had to commit to investing in the process, becoming a public figure, marketing my book daily, and potentially leaving my full-time job.

Second, CREATE A QUALITY PRODUCT. I wrote a good book. What constitutes a “good book?” Well, I made sure that I took time to research my topic from credible sources. I invested in a developmental editor. The meat of my book was great, but it needed to be refined. Truth be told, my manuscript was full of corrections and feedback notes from my developmental editor. Seeing all those “track changes” initially had me in my feelings, but her feedback made Zara’s Wash Day what it is today. She made sure the versus actually rhymed and had a fun cadence for readers. She also advised me to shorten the book which meant I had to cut out an entire section that I grew attached to. Additionally I invested in an illustrator, Princess Karibo, and book designer, Anthony Foronda. I sought an illustrator who could respect the beauty of the Black aesthetic and honor the movement of textured hair. I wanted a designer who could put the book together in a way that would stand out on shelf, in print, and online. This team understood the assignment and trusting their expertise freed me up to concentrate on my strength-writing.

Third,THINK BIGGER. I was in this for the long game. I built out a full brand with my book being the tool that established credibility and awareness. Initially, Zara’s Wash Day was going to be a one-and-done project. But by the time I finished the manuscript, I realized that the message was bigger than just one book. I realized that most ethnic communities have a hairitage-hair customs, traditions, beliefs and practices passed down by an ancestor or predecessor. So, I asked myself, ” How can I be more inclusive and set the series and my consulting business for longevity?” The next step was to change the book title to something that I knew would resonate with my community- Zara’s Wash Day.Then I named the series, Know Your Hairitage.

Fourth, BE PREPARED…TO TALK ABOUT YOURSELF. I mastered my elevator speech. I left my corporate job but held onto the knowledge and relationships I gained as a corporate leader in marketing, communications, sales, and education. I operated in my strengths and applied what I learned from larger corporations. The breakthrough happened when I fully understood the mission of my books and business. Then I poured my creativity and swag into each strategy execution. As a smaller start-up (or shall I say, as a one-woman-show), I experimented with my audience and adjusted with speed and agility. This also meant that every day I was talking about myself and my product. That was difficult because I had to step outside of this notion that being humble and grateful would work better for me as a Black, woman entrepreneur. In fact, being less humble was the fuel I needed to light the fire. Even when I did not want to,  I posted, created content, carried my books everywhere, and networked-I lived a breathed my brand. Every time I left my house or got ready for a call, I had this phrase playing in my head, “Prepare right now to be sick of me!”

And lastly, DO IT SCARED. I was terrified when I uploaded my final book files and hit the go button on the IngramSpark self-publishing website. The fear of being vulnerable and exposing myself to the world prevailed. I had to get comfortable with the idea that fear can exist in the same space as courage. I took action (and paused when necessary) while allowing myself to feel all the feels.

I hope that this formula for leveling up will help someone out in the world who is ready to take the leap into entrepreneurship and/or who is struggling to breakthrough.

####

Zenda Walker is CEO of Know Your Hairitage-a business consulting firm.  She is the award-winning author of “Zara’s Wash Day,” the first book in the Know Your Hairitage series.  Both Zara’s Wash Day and her second book, Zion’s Crown, will globally launch under Running Press Kids in June 4, 2024 and September 10, 2024.

Subscribe to KYH Newsletter

This newsletter is distributed quarterly and highlights diversity topics around hair and fashion that helps individuals and organizations foster more inclusive environments and understand more about the cultural norms of the communities they design for.

Thanks for Subscribing!

Pin It on Pinterest